In the serene embrace of Arquà Petrarca, a quaint village nestled in the Euganean Hills of Italy, lies not only the final resting place of Renaissance patriarch Francesco Petrarch but also a hidden treasure – the jujube fruit. The year 1370 marked Petrarch’s escape from the bustling canals of Venice, seeking solace in this picturesque haven to evade the “ignorance” of his era.
Arquà Petrarca, with its medieval stone houses ascending from the 11th-century Church of Santa Maria Assunta to Petrarch’s tranquil villa, remains a charming hamlet of barely 2,000 residents. Lord Byron, on his Grand Tour, described it as a “soft, quiet hamlet… in the deep umbrage of a green hill’s shade.” While Petrarch’s house and tomb draw visitors, locals cherish a lesser-known treasure – the Italian jujube fruit, whose elusive flavour gives life to the famed “brodo di giuggiole” or jujube broth.
Jujube, a small olive-shaped fruit with a hard pit and a green-brown exterior, was beloved by the elites of Petrarch’s time. The fruit, known for its diverse flavours, takes on a sweet complexity when ripened off the vine, contributing to the exquisite local liquor – brodo di giuggiole. This elixir, once so renowned that it birthed the idiom “andare in brodo di giuggiole” (to live in a state of bliss), faded into obscurity after a decline in jujube cultivation.
Since the 1980s, a group of entrepreneurs, led by Alessandro Callegaro of Scarpon, a family farming business, has been on a mission to revive the brodo di giuggiole and restore the jujube as the emblematic flavour of Petrarch’s cherished town. Callegaro, heir to a family with a penchant for experimenting with unusual flavours, is dedicated to reviving ancient culinary traditions.
The jujube tree, first brought to Italy during the reign of Emperor Augustus by soldiers returning from Syria, has a rich history. Legend has it that its thorny branches formed the crown of Jesus Christ, and for Romans, the tree symbolized silence and good fortune. Even today, jujube trees are considered a good omen, often planted near farmers’ houses for luck.
In Arquà Petrarca, these ancient trees, some centuries-old, dot the landscape, playing a vital role on a historical, cultural, and aesthetic level. Callegaro’s own house boasts a jujube tree over a century old, a testament to the family’s commitment to preserving this ancient fruit amid the rise of more profitable olive groves.
Despite its rich history, jujubes have posed challenges for commercial cultivation. With thorny branches, difficult harvesting, and a narrow season, jujubes fell out of favor for more lucrative options. However, their unique taste, described by agronomist Ferdinando Cossio as a return to childhood, has fueled efforts to revive their cultivation.
Callegaro’s Scarpon has undertaken the task of recreating the brodo di giuggiole, a concoction that dates back to the 16th century. Scarpon’s recipe, a blend of seasonal fruits like quince, pomegranate, and grape, aims to keep jujubes as the dominant flavour. The result is a captivating bouquet of autumn flavours with a caramelly richness and a touch of summer citrus.
Producing a mere 8,000 bottles annually, Scarpon keeps its operation artisanal and exclusive, in line with the ethos of Arquà Petrarca. The limited supply, combined with the uniqueness of the product, aligns with the town’s commitment to preserving its culinary heritage. The scarcity ensures sustainability and roots the practice in tradition, making the brodo di giuggiole a sought-after delicacy.
Arquà Petrarca celebrates its jujube heritage with an annual festival, inviting locals and visitors to savor the unique flavours. Giorgio Borin, owner of Ristorante La Montanella, emphasizes the importance of maintaining the artisanal nature of jujube cultivation. He sees virtue in keeping the production limited, allowing the jujube to retain its uniqueness and preventing it from becoming an industry.
In this pursuit, the Borin family, known for their grand and palatial restaurant, has introduced a new culinary delight – giuggiolone, a jujube-flavoured panettone. This reflects the town’s intentional effort to spotlight one local delicacy, symbolizing the community and drawing visitors to Petrarch’s town.